By Kerri Ann Boylan, Client Concierge Manager, Powder Byrne
There is a certain type of travel that goes beyond simply visiting a destination. It draws you into a culture, introduces you to people who live their craft every day and gives you the feeling that you have discovered something special. My recent journey exploring hidden Japan through the Yamagata and Miyagi regions offered exactly that.
These areas sit within the wider Tohoku region and remain wonderfully under the radar for most international travellers. Over ten days I found a side of Japan that was deeply authentic, beautifully personal and full of soul. I could easily write far more than this article because every day opened another door.
A Gentle Introduction to Hidden Japan: Coastal Yamagata
Our journey began in Tsuruoka after a smooth domestic flight to Shonai Airport. The approach was breathtaking, with mountains rolling down to the coastline and the sea stretching endlessly beneath the aircraft. After a long travel day this landscape felt like a soft landing for the mind.
We checked into Kameya, a traditional ocean front hot spring hotel, where the bath was already running when we entered the room. The water came directly from the hot spring source, and our own private onsen looked out toward the coastline. Today was intentionally gentle. Time to rest. Time to adjust. Time to simply arrive in Japan.
In the early evening, we left for an interactive dinner with Chef Takeshi Suda, a renowned master of fugu preparation. His restaurant overlooks the ocean and the moment we stepped inside the atmosphere shifted into something memorable. Even without a shared language we communicated easily. He had a warm energy and was eager to show us his passion.
We began with sushi making, working side by side with him as he taught us delicate movements and proper technique. Then came the fugu. He demonstrated the full process, carefully removing the toxic parts in front of us, before plating the fish with extraordinary artistry. One of his signature dishes is fugu sashimi arranged in the elegant shape of a crane with touches of gold. It was as much art performance as cuisine, and it set the tone for what this region does so well. It was personal. It was passionate. It felt like an invitation into his world.
The Spiritual Soul of Mt Haguro
The next morning, we travelled to Mt Haguro, one of the sacred mountains of Dewa Sanzan. Before beginning the ascent, we changed into white pilgrim robes called shiroshozoku. This simple change immediately shifted the mood. It reminded us that this was not a regular hike, but a spiritual pathway walked for centuries.
We began the ninety minute climb along two thousand four hundred forty six stone steps, accompanied by a Yamabushi monk. His presence added a quiet depth to the journey. The cedar forest surrounding us was extraordinary, with giant trees between three hundred and five hundred years old. Many are recognised as a national natural monument. Halfway up we passed the five storey pagoda, a National Treasure of Japan that seemed to rise out of the mist.
The experience was peaceful, grounding and completely immersive. At the top we visited the shrine complex before making our way back down. Lunch followed at a winery where the food and wine were beautifully matched to the setting. After lunch we visited the Samurai Silk facility where the owner gave us a personal tour. The craftsmanship was intricate and full of history and many of us left with silk pieces made on site.
We then travelled to a temple lodging for the evening. This felt like stepping into another world. Dinner was traditional and simple. The baths were gender separated in the classic Japanese style and anyone who needed private bathing time was supported. The atmosphere was tranquil and respectful, in the morning, we joined the monks for prayer before departing. It was a rare opportunity to live inside the rhythm of temple life, even for one night.
A Glimpse into Local Creativity
The Samurai Silk facility earlier in the day was another example of how personal the region is. A small family operation where history and craft are passed down through generations. Seeing the process up close added another layer to the culture.
A Winery That Captures the Heart
The family run winery was charming in every sense. The owner’s passion came through immediately and the dishes served were thoughtful, local and beautifully balanced. It was one of those experiences where the food, wine and setting come together naturally.
The Iaido Experience and Inland Yamagata
The following morning, we travelled inland for about ninety minutes through the countryside to a small wooden hall for our Iaido experience. We dressed in traditional clothing and were introduced to the centuries old art of sword movement. The instructors were welcoming, joyful and unexpectedly playful. They showed us swords that were over seven hundred years old and shared the stories behind them. The experience felt entirely genuine, nothing staged or commercial.
Our next stop was Kumano Shrine where we watched a Kagura performance. This sacred dance and music tradition was powerful and felt deeply connected to the Shinto world.
Takinami Ryokan: A Benchmark for Hospitality
Our journey continued to Takinami Ryokan, a property that captures the best of Northern Japan. Recently awarded a Michelin Key, it blends authenticity with elegance. From the moment we arrived the service felt effortless.
We met our Onsen Sommelier who was available throughout our stay to ensure that our private baths were at the perfect temperature. He guided us through rituals and traditions with warmth and humour. The president of the hotel hosted a soba making class which was both refined and enjoyable.
Dinner was a seven course showcase of local ingredients served in our private dining room. The Okitama Valley plays a major role in the quality of produce here. The dramatic daily temperature shifts from thirty five degrees to twenty create conditions that enhance flavour in vegetables, fruit and Yonezawa beef. These ingredients speak for themselves and the chefs at Takinami treat them with absolute respect.
The property also has a boutique three apartment residence and collaborates with Osteria Sincerita, a Michelin recognised restaurant. Even the interior design carries meaning, with furniture created in the style of Finn Juhl but crafted locally in Yamagata.
The president of the ryokan hosted us personally and left a lasting impression. His pride in the region, his commitment to community and his desire to share the culture of Yamagata with guests were striking. His leadership is evident in every part of the property, and it sets a tone of sincerity and quiet confidence.
Crossing into Miyagi
The next morning began with an Opinion Exchange Meeting before we transferred to Miyagi Prefecture. After a scenic ninety minute drive we arrived in Muikamachi, a nostalgic shopping street in Kurihara with charming traditional shops.
We took part in mochi making and taiyaki making at a small family shop. Both experiences were fun, hands on and full of laughter. These small touches are what make the region feel so human.
We stayed that evening at a mountain hotel that sits high in the nature of Kurihara, selected specifically to prepare us for the full day hike.
Hiking Hidden Japan through the Mountains of Kurihara
The next day was our longest outdoor day. We left our main luggage and only carried overnight packs. The hike was not overly intense, but it was long, between seven and eight hours depending on our pace. The autumn colours were spectacular, and we took plenty of breaks. The organisers had even arranged a portable toilet which added comfort to the day and was appreciated more than you might expect.
Our lodge for the night was remarkable. Run by a single family, it had a warm and rustic charm. There was no Wi-Fi or signal and the power was provided by a generator that shut off at night. When the lights went out the entire lodge was illuminated by oil lanterns. We enjoyed natural hot springs and a quiet that felt almost sacred.
Kurihara to Sendai
The next morning, we hiked back down to the main road and visited a historic mountain checkpoint where we learned about the history of the trail. We then travelled to Kazenosawa, a boutique lodging run by a chef who blends Japanese and French cuisine. Lunch here was refined, thoughtful and set inside a beautifully preserved building.
In the afternoon we visited a tatami factory for a workshop and had the chance to make our own tatami mats.
The Future of Powder Byrne in Hidden Japan
Yamagata and Miyagi reveal a side of Japan that is gentle, soulful and deeply meaningful. These regions reward curiosity, reflection and travellers who value intention over speed. They offer a chance to connect with people, tradition, nature and food in ways that feel personal and sincere.
For travellers who want Japan without crowds and without the commercial veneer that can come with popular routes, this region is an extraordinary opportunity.
After ten days immersed in the culture and landscapes of Tohoku, it is a part of Japan that stays with you long after you leave.
Your gateway to Japan’s most authentic and beautifully under-the-radar encounters begins with us. Explore Hidden Japan, perfectly curated by Powder Byrne. Book a complimentary consultation today.